Have you ever noticed that some garments just don't sit right on your shoulders?

The forward shoulder adjustment might be the solution you've been looking for. In this video tutorial, I share two essential techniques to rectify this common fitting issue.

The forward shoulder adjustment is helpful for those whose shoulder line sits more forward than average and addresses the unique curvature of your shoulder, ensuring a more comfortable fit and a better sleeve hang.

Technique 1: The Seam Position Change

This method is straightforward and popular, perfect for minor adjustments without altering the overall fit of your bodice.

This adjustment is excellent if your only issue is the shoulder seam position. However, it requires a corresponding sleeve adjustment to maintain proper fit. By moving the notch on your sleeve forward, you ensure the sleeve sits correctly on your body without altering its overall shape.

Technique 2: The True Forward Shoulder Adjustment

For those experiencing m...

Two Methods to Correct Forward Head Posture in Your Sewing Patterns

Are you struggling with fitting issues caused by forward head posture?
In this video, I'll show you an example of a forward head posture and two ways to adjust the pattern for this fitting issue.

First Adjustment Method:

Raising the Back Neckline and Moving the Shoulder Seam Forward: Learn how to create slash lines on your pattern to adjust the back neckline and shoulder seam. This method ensures that the back neckline is raised, the shoulder seam is moved forward, and the front neck drop is lowered, maintaining balance and fit.

Sleeve Adjustment: Discover how to modify your sleeve pattern to accommodate the changes made to the armhole, ensuring a seamless fit.

Second Adjustment Method:

Adjusting the Neckline Without Changing the Shoulder Point: This method is perfect if the shoulder line position is correct, but the back neck is too low, and the front neck is too high. We guide you through creating slash lines to...

Want to create a beautifully fitted strapless bodice? This video is for you!

If you'd like to learn more about the bust circle and the contour darts used for necklines and armholes, be sure to watch the other videos from this series, you'll find them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

Video 3: Armhole Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to create strapless styling. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them to create a strapless, princess seamed, torso length bodice.

If you're interested in creating a personal bodice block, I can help you create one in Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. I'll show you how to draft, refine and fit a hip length bodice and sleeve using your personal measurements. Learn how here.

All My Best,
Alexandra

If you want to develop sleeveless garments from your self drafted patterns you'll need to incorporate contour or gape darts. Contour or gape darts are designed to eliminate gape and excess ease in closely fitted garments. In this video I'll show you how to plot the armhole contour darts and how to use them to create a sleeveless garment.

For more information about the bust circle and neckline contour darts see my previous videos, watch them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to eliminate gaping armholes. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them. 

I've recommended a couple of other videos in this mini lesson; these links will get you there is a snap! I hope you enjoy!

Two Essential Skills for Pattern Manipulation

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

A quick note here:

This method is best used after you've developed a good fitting b...

If you want to develop lowered necklines or cross over bodices from your self drafted patterns you'll need to incorporate contour or gape darts. Contour or gape darts are designed to eliminate gape and excess ease in closely fitted garments. In this video I'll show you how to plot the neckline contour darts and how to use them to create a lowered neckline and a cross over bodice.

I shared the basic principles of contour darts in a previous video. It's a good idea to watch that video before delving into this one.

The Bust Circle Defined

A quick note here:

This method is best used after you've developed a good fitting basic block pattern. If you find yourself constantly struggling with fitting no matter what pattern company you use, creating a set of personalized pattern blocks may just be the right next step for you. If you'd like more information about that, I'll leave a link for you in the description of this video.

If you're interested in creating a personal bodice block, I can...

Do you struggle with gaping necklines and armholes on your self drafted patterns? Would you like to fit your bodice more closely, or perhaps create a strapless bodice pattern? If so, this video is for you because I'm going to define the bust circle and tell you how it's related to achieving a good fit over your body contours.

First of all, what do I mean by body contours? 

Think of the body as a landscape. It has hills, valleys and plains. Some hills are higher, some valleys deeper, and some plains more expansive.  Imagine a flat sheet of muslin lightly draped over this landscape, you'll notice that in some areas the muslin will touch the landscape, in others there will be voids or empty spaces. Where the muslin touches this landscape you'll likely find hills. Where you find voids, will most likely be valleys. 

Now consider the front of the body. You'll easily be able to recognize the most prominent or highest hill; the bust. The highest point of the bust is the bust point. The deep...

Recently this question popped into my inbox: "How do I begin creating my own patterns that fit?" I get this question a lot so I thought it would be good to address it. In this video I'll share the answer to this question and give you an opportunity that you'll definitely want to take me up on if you want to get started at no cost to you.

If you're someone with a growing desire to learn more about pattern making for fit and design, you're not alone.  As you gain and master more advanced sewing skills you'll naturally become intellectually and creatively ready to level up. You'll likely become tired of constantly making the same fitting adjustments to commercial sewing patterns and fed up with compromising on styles that are close, but not exactly what you're looking for.

If you constantly struggle with fitting no matter what pattern company you use, creating a set of personalized pattern blocks may just be the right next step for you. A basic block drafted to your measurements and ref...

 If you followed through with all of the lessons in the Skirt Block Mini Class, you’ll already have a flared skirt pattern that you can use to follow along in this week’s project. If you haven’t created a flared skirt pattern yet, you’ll need to create one or have a commercial pattern you can use as your foundation because this week I’m showing you how to create culottes using a flared skirt pattern.

Watch the video now to begin drafting your personal culotte pattern.

I hope you enjoy this pattern design project. With this easy adaptation to your skirt block you now have infinite possibilities for easy fitting, simple to sew versatile garments. For instructions on how to create a waistband for your culotte pattern get guidance with this video tutorial.

If you’re ready to level up your drafting and pattern making skills, visit Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block and The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice for more advanced online courses that will have you drafting and designing patterns li...

Do you have a skirt block that you don't quite know what to do with? Or perhaps a straight skirt pattern that fits you perfectly that you'd like to use as a base for a new style? If that's the case, watch this video because I'm going to show you how to create and balance a flared skirt pattern. 

In this tutorial I'll be working with some scaled block patterns. If you don't already have a skirt pattern to work from you can download my scaled block patterns or sign up for The Skirt Block Mini Class and create your very own custom sized skirt pattern. I'll leave links to those somewhere on this page.

Let me show you how to manipulate a basic skirt pattern to create flare and then balance the flare so that the hem hangs evenly all the way around. We're also going to talk about grainlines so that you can see how drastically it can change the look and hang of your skirt.

As I mentioned in the video, get your FREE Scaled Block Patterns to practice your pattern work. Click the image below t...

Did you know that establishing a good fitting waistband is an important part of the fitting process for skirts and pants? Think about it, the waistband holds these garments up and secures them in place at a comfortable level. 

If the waistband is too small, the garment will likely sit too high on the body. If it's too large, the garment will sit too low. In both cases an ill fitting waistband will cause fitting issues below it and will ultimately be quite uncomfortable. 

So today, I'll show you how to draft a basic straight waistband using your personal body measurements.

Watch the video now.

If you're interested in creating your own made to measure skirt block join The Skirt Block Mini Class. It's absolutely free.

When you sign up for the class you'll receive the drafting instructions for a woven skirt block and a series of emails that will give you step-by-step guidance in creating a custom size skirt pattern using your personal body measurements.

 If you're tired of constant...