If you want to develop lowered necklines or cross over bodices from your self drafted patterns you'll need to incorporate contour or gape darts. Contour or gape darts are designed to eliminate gape and excess ease in closely fitted garments. In this video I'll show you how to plot the neckline contour darts and how to use them to create a lowered neckline and a cross over bodice.
I shared the basic principles of contour darts in a previous video. It's a good idea to watch that video before delving into this one.
A quick note here:
This method is best used after you've developed a good fitting basic block pattern. If you find yourself constantly struggling with fitting no matter what pattern company you use, creating a set of personalized pattern blocks may just be the right next step for you. If you'd like more information about that, I'll leave a link for you in the description of this video.
If you're interested in creating a personal bodice block, I can help you create one in Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. I'll show you how to draft, refine and fit a hip length bodice and sleeve using your personal measurements. Learn more here.
Next week you can look forward to a new video in this series where I'll show you how define the contour darts for the armhole so that you can eliminate any gaping in that area as you start designing cut out armhole shapes.
All My Best,
Alexandra