Want to create a beautifully fitted strapless bodice? This video is for you!

If you'd like to learn more about the bust circle and the contour darts used for necklines and armholes, be sure to watch the other videos from this series, you'll find them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

Video 3: Armhole Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to create strapless styling. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them to create a strapless, princess seamed, torso length bodice.

If you're interested in creating a personal bodice block, I can help you create one in Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block. I'll show you how to draft, refine and fit a hip length bodice and sleeve using your personal measurements. Learn how here.

All My Best,
Alexandra

If you want to develop sleeveless garments from your self drafted patterns you'll need to incorporate contour or gape darts. Contour or gape darts are designed to eliminate gape and excess ease in closely fitted garments. In this video I'll show you how to plot the armhole contour darts and how to use them to create a sleeveless garment.

For more information about the bust circle and neckline contour darts see my previous videos, watch them here:

Video 1: The Bust Circle Defined

Video 2: Neckline Contour Darts

This week, we're looking at the contour darts used to eliminate gaping armholes. Once again, I'm going to show you where they go, what size they usually are and how to use them. 

I've recommended a couple of other videos in this mini lesson; these links will get you there is a snap! I hope you enjoy!

Two Essential Skills for Pattern Manipulation

Three Ways to Manage the Back Shoulder Dart

A quick note here:

This method is best used after you've developed a good fitting b...

If you want to develop lowered necklines or cross over bodices from your self drafted patterns you'll need to incorporate contour or gape darts. Contour or gape darts are designed to eliminate gape and excess ease in closely fitted garments. In this video I'll show you how to plot the neckline contour darts and how to use them to create a lowered neckline and a cross over bodice.

I shared the basic principles of contour darts in a previous video. It's a good idea to watch that video before delving into this one.

The Bust Circle Defined

A quick note here:

This method is best used after you've developed a good fitting basic block pattern. If you find yourself constantly struggling with fitting no matter what pattern company you use, creating a set of personalized pattern blocks may just be the right next step for you. If you'd like more information about that, I'll leave a link for you in the description of this video.

If you're interested in creating a personal bodice block, I can...

Do you struggle with gaping necklines and armholes on your self drafted patterns? Would you like to fit your bodice more closely, or perhaps create a strapless bodice pattern? If so, this video is for you because I'm going to define the bust circle and tell you how it's related to achieving a good fit over your body contours.

First of all, what do I mean by body contours? 

Think of the body as a landscape. It has hills, valleys and plains. Some hills are higher, some valleys deeper, and some plains more expansive.  Imagine a flat sheet of muslin lightly draped over this landscape, you'll notice that in some areas the muslin will touch the landscape, in others there will be voids or empty spaces. Where the muslin touches this landscape you'll likely find hills. Where you find voids, will most likely be valleys. 

Now consider the front of the body. You'll easily be able to recognize the most prominent or highest hill; the bust. The highest point of the bust is the bust point. The deep...

 If you followed through with all of the lessons in the Skirt Block Mini Class, you’ll already have a flared skirt pattern that you can use to follow along in this week’s project. If you haven’t created a flared skirt pattern yet, you’ll need to create one or have a commercial pattern you can use as your foundation because this week I’m showing you how to create culottes using a flared skirt pattern.

Watch the video now to begin drafting your personal culotte pattern.

I hope you enjoy this pattern design project. With this easy adaptation to your skirt block you now have infinite possibilities for easy fitting, simple to sew versatile garments. For instructions on how to create a waistband for your culotte pattern get guidance with this video tutorial.

If you’re ready to level up your drafting and pattern making skills, visit Designed to Fit: The Bodice Block and The Custom Stretch Knit Bodice for more advanced online courses that will have you drafting and designing patterns li...

Did you know that establishing a good fitting waistband is an important part of the fitting process for skirts and pants? Think about it, the waistband holds these garments up and secures them in place at a comfortable level. 

If the waistband is too small, the garment will likely sit too high on the body. If it's too large, the garment will sit too low. In both cases an ill fitting waistband will cause fitting issues below it and will ultimately be quite uncomfortable. 

So today, I'll show you how to draft a basic straight waistband using your personal body measurements.

Watch the video now.

If you're interested in creating your own made to measure skirt block join The Skirt Block Mini Class. It's absolutely free.

When you sign up for the class you'll receive the drafting instructions for a woven skirt block and a series of emails that will give you step-by-step guidance in creating a custom size skirt pattern using your personal body measurements.

 If you're tired of constant...

'Tis the season for cozy evenings, indoor projects and handmade gifts so let's make your evenings extra cozy, your indoor projects extra fun and your gifts extra special by creating made to measure lounge pants for you, your friends and your family.

New PJ's or lounge pants are always a special treat, especially if they are made to measure in the prints and fabrics you love. They also happen to be a great pattern design project for budding pattern makers because they are easy to draft, forgiving on fit, and quick to sew.  

I'm excited to get started on this fun project with you so when you're ready, download and print the drafting instructions and follow along.

Click the image below to get the Bria drafting instructions sent straight to your inbox.

Watch the video with the drafting instructions in hand, I'll share some guidance on what you'll need to get started and show you the best way to proceed to make the draft go quickly and easily.

If this project sounds perfect for gift ...

This month the focus has been on using one pattern to create as many garments as possible.

If you've been following along, you'll already know about the McCall's jumpsuit pattern that I also used to create a pair of super comfy and floaty pants. If you missed those, click the links below.

How to Fit Before You Sew - Featuring McCall's 6083

How to Develop Pants from a Jumpsuit Pattern - Featuring McCall's 6083

Today I'd like to share another variation on the Lila sewing pattern which, by the way, is already a mini class in fitting and pattern design. Not only will you get the sewing pattern, you'll also get video tutorials on fitting the pattern and several design projects that will show you how to take the pattern even further.

In this week's tutorial I'm showing you how to alter the Lila top for a tie-front hem. Let me show you how I altered the Lila pattern to create this tie-front detail.

Here are the final results. This version of the Lila top features the flutter sleeve whic...

If you’ve been following along, you’ll know I been doing some summer sewing lately. This week I’m sharing how I developed a super comfy pair of floaty pants from the McCall's 6083 Jumpsuit pattern.

Here’s a look at how they turned out.

Watch the video now to see how it's done.

Did you enjoy this video? If you'd like to see more like this, let me know! You can subscribe to my youtube channel, message me via email at [email protected] or visit me on instagram @inhousepatterns. When you comment, like, follow and share on these platforms, you’ll get more of what you love in your feed and help others to find the content too. I would really appreciate it too.

Next week, I'll be sharing how I took the Lila sewing pattern and created yet another variation on the style. I hope you’ll tune in.

All My Best,
Alexandra

When do you feel most inspired to sew?

For me, the motivation is usually sparked by a change in seasons, a special occasion, an unsuccessful shopping experience or travel plans. I recently had a burst of sewing inspired by summer travel plans so I wanted to share what I made and give you a little “behind the scenes” view of the pattern work that allowed me to skip the sample and cut into the fashion fabric with confidence.

I was sure I was going to skip the jumpsuit trend this time around, but I found this pattern in my collection and it seemed the perfect piece to take on a summer vacation as well as an elevated way to stay comfortable throughout the entire summer. As an added bonus I already had the fabric and notions on hand.

Unfortunately this pattern is out of print, but I have no doubt you'll find a similar one if you're so inclined. Watch the video for a closer look at the pattern and a summary of how I altered the pattern to fit me without needing to sew a sample.

I encou...